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Sidebars: Fried chicken stands out at Vincennes eatery

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SidebarsSidebars reviews and rates eateries lawyers may enjoy visiting when working at courthouses throughout Indiana. Fred offers this issue’s review of Dogwood Barbeque.

This occasion takes us to Vincennes in Knox County. Joined by one of Indiana’s newly admitted lawyers, Christopher Pottratz, and an old acquaintance I hadn’t seen for years, Bob Andrews, our trio sauntered over to the Dogwood Barbeque after late-morning court for lunch based upon the recommendation of Knox County Deputy Prosecutor Joe Burton. Joe must like to eat because this buffet-style restaurant serves up massive quantities of food for a reasonable price.

The name is a bit of a misnomer as I wouldn’t characterize this place as a barbecue joint. The Amish influence is readily apparent here. We enjoyed some tangy beef vegetable soup for a starter. Despite the heavy influence of canned vegetables in the flavorful broth, the heaping portions of stewed tomatoes and tender beef made for a merry medley of flavor. Of course there was the token salad bar, with the typical toppings. What added a bit of flair was the freshly made bread accompanied by large, ceramic crocks of freshly churned butter and Amish homemade apple butter. While I was not impressed with the bread, if you pile enough apple butter on anything it is bound to hit its mark.

The main entrees and sides consisted of fried biscuits (more apple butter for these!), mashed potatoes and gravy, buttered parsley potatoes, green beans, baked beans, corn (canned), cabbage, ham slices, fried shrimp, fried Pollack, barbecue pork, and the show stealer – fried chicken. While some of the other selections deserve a lower gavel rating, the fried chicken more than makes up for those. The light, crispy, flavorful, non-greasy breading dusting the juicy, flavorful chicken makes the trip to Vincennes worth it for the chicken alone. At the risk of angering my lovely wife, Amy, in the interest of full disclosure, I could not help but think of another woman in my life when it comes to this chicken. Her name is Jenny. I know she’d love this chicken, but we don’t share any Knox County cases at the moment. I’ll be sure to take her if that happens. Oh, I almost forgot, don’t forget the dessert bar. On this date it featured blackbird pie; fresh, whipped cream; assorted cookies; and, brownies. Yum!

Despite having every intention to go again to this place on my return visit to Vincennes, a late start from Indianapolis thwarted that plan. I’d go again though, especially for the fried chicken. A returning customer is what every restaurant strives for, and Dogwood Barbeque gets that from me. Dogwood Barbeque, 2232 N. 6th St., Vincennes, IN. 812-882-0552.•

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Fred Vaiana and Jennifer Lukemeyer practice at Voyles Zahn & Paul in Indianapolis, focusing on criminal defense. Both enjoy a good meal with colleagues and friends. The opinions expressed in this column are those of the authors.

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